El Campanero is for more than walking

You{ll know you're on El Campanero, a sloping pedestrian street connecting Sopeña and Sangre de Cristo in Guanajuato by the archway. Now the street, with three restaurants and cafeterias, makes a fine stopping point for relaxing and sipping or eating.

Santocafe, with its outside tables on the arch, is the oldest establishment or you can sit inside with their hip, young crowd. A bit pricey but in line with the other two places along the street and with a more ample menu, meaning you can get a hot meal there. Some vegetarian options.

Farther up, you'll come to La Casona del Campanero. You'll see a passageway that leads to the patio and a half dozen shops filled with upscale crafts. A good place for coffee and, I've heard, salads.

El Kaapeh is the newest, featuring coffee, salads and breakfast. Seating is at tables or on their sofa near the coffee bar. If you're hungry, you can proceed upstairs to Doña Lety's Fonda Antigua.

My ghost story set in Guanajuato now published online

You can reach "Our Mutual Friend" at www.bigpulp.com, then clicking fantasy. The story was written a few years ago before coffeehouses in Guanajuato were full of laptop users. Instead they were social centers, especially for people without phones. Yep, Guanajuato as it was before cell phones were widespread. The story is a fantasy, but full of realistic details.

Wondering how I found a website that turned out to be interested in this story? Click on Duotrope , a free writer's resource that I found motivating and rewarding. My article, "Reading Aloud to Your Fellow Writers," is doing well at www.associatedcontent.com

Cervantino Festival Begins Tonight and a Suggestion

I'll be at the Alhondiga tonight with 1500 others to see giant puppets from Quebec dancing to Ravel's Bolero. If you're not in Guanajuato and have time to spare, go to www.associatedcontent.com to check out articles I've written on Guanajuato.

Young violinist to play at Iconografico Thurs, Oct 8

Teenager Elena Makhnev, who already has a distinguished track record (see below), will be playing Brahms Hungarian Dance #5 and other works this Thursday. Concerts at the Iconografico are gratis, with the doors closing promptly at the starting time.

ELENA MAKHNEV Nació en 1993. Realizo sus estudios musicales a la edad de 6 años bajo la dirección de su padre Stanislav Makhnev, Integrante de la orquesta sinfónica de la universidad de Guanajuato. Durante su trayectoria musical ha realizado diferentes conciertos a acompañada de talentosos pianista. Obtuvo el premio de niña talento por televisa san ángel, abrió ruta teletón para el crip de Irapuato. Como solista empezó a los 9 años ejecutando el concierto de Vivaldi, acompañada por la camerana juvenil bajo la dirección Mario Rodríguez Taboada ,a los 10 años toco el concierto de Bach en la menor con dicha camerana , participo en el concurso nacional de violín realizado por el conservatorio de Música de la UNAM. Hermilo Novelo, logrando el tercer lugar a nivel nacional a los 11 años fue aceptada en la Escuela Central de la Música del Conservatorio de Tchaikovsky de Moscú, Rusia. Donde aun realiza sus estudios, bajo la distinguida maestra Natalia Tatisheva. Participo en la temporada X11 OTOÑO –INVIERNO 2006 como solista con el concierto para violín F. Mendelsonh OP.64 en Mi menor con los tres movimiento a acompañada por la orquesta juvenil del estado de México dirigida por Mario Rodríguez taboada. Ha realizado diferentes concierto en los municipios Guanajuato, Celaya, león, Irapuato, san miguel allende actualmente en julio saldrá a Francia donde dará un ciclo de concierto como master class actualmente es patrocinada por el FONDO- NACIONAL de la cultura y las artes de México CONACULTA-FONCA.

La Carbonera School Children Visit Gto

These children from the primary school in La Carbonera, a community a few kilometers past the bus station, toured Guanajuato Capital several weeks ago. They, their teacher and several mothers visited the Iconographic Museum devoted to Cervantes' Don Quixote novel, the Teatro Juarez and the historic Alhondiga.

Here a few of the girls are coming downstairs from the foyer used for decades by ladies in the audience who wanted to touch up their makeup during intermission.

The boy in the other photo had just jumped up to imitate the posture of the Don Quixote statue visible in the background. Then, just as quickly, he sat back down to draw.

Arcoiris (Rainbow Connection), a bi-cultural women's organization in the city, worked with the school community teacher to arrange the trip.

Huitlachoche -- The Time Is Now

We've had several heavy rains in Guanajuato recently so I wasn't surprised that Sunday I saw huitlacoche sold being sold by a sidewalk vendor. This is the grey-black fungus that grows on corn on the cob in the rainy season. If you don't say yuck to mushrooms, it's worth a try, either at home or from the quesadilla and gordita seller at the foot of the Alameda. The huitlacoche and remaining corn kernels are cut from the cob, then sauteed in a tomato, garlic, onion mixture that has been prepared first. I wish I'd taken a photo before I sat down to eat. You can buy huitlachoche on the cob near Mercado Hidalgo, along the street leading into Calle Alondiga, and sometimes from women selling outside the Embajadoras Market.

Four Tasty Treats

Although sometimes this blog suggests that my Guanajuato life consists mainly of eating, that isn't true. It's just that I like to head visitors in Guanajuato to places where I think they'll eat well.
First on my list today is Truco 7, an old standby on calle Truco between the Jardin and Plaza de la Paz. Their comida is nothing special but I love (not too strong a word) their chicken sandwich, a roll filled with breast meat complemented by tomato, avocado, and a chile, removable if you're so inclined. Truco is very pleasant evenings and late mornings, the latter a popular time with university people wanting a cuppa.

Another Mexican restaurant I like is El Cerro de las Ranas on the right side of Juan Valle going toward Positos and the tunnel. It is becoming increasingly popular with Guanajuatenses so I recommend arriving before three. Dark green walls, high ceiling, efficient service for a meal that often goes beyond the usual Guanajuato restaurant fare. Today I started with chicken soup containing pieces of chicken instead of carrots and chayote, a memorable three color salad of layers of beet, jicama and carrot, a large torta of acelgas or chard in guajillo sauce (a mild tasty pepper) and as the postre, a small buñuelo or elephant ear. Agua de fruta or natural included. 40 pesos.

Four my birthday, I ordered a French chocolate cake from Veronique at La Midi in San Fernando plaza and shared it with friends. There's no need to order a whole cake though. You can cut whatever you-sized slice you want and pay by the weight.

At 6pm, I went to an art opening at the Olga Costa Museum in the white-walled gallery with white marble floors across from the older part of the museum. The paintings and installation by three Spanish women show to advantage there. They will remain for about a month. Yes, along with the interesting art there was finger-food for the occasion, antojitos from Corcho d'baco, which now has a new semi-upscale salad restaurant in a building with several galleries and shops in the Campanero (on the way to Sangre de Cristo from the main street). You order upstairs but can eat your salad in the patio if you like.

I'm back in Guanajuato

I'm back from visiting family and friends in Berkeley, Philadelphia, Washington DC amd Brooklyn. While I was in the US I replaced my camera so I'll soon be posting photos. Yesterday a friend, Ysabel, introduced me to an inexpensive restaurant on Positos near or at #23. A simple meal but the "nude" chile relleno (no batter) filled with ground meat was tasty. 35 pesos.

Children Take to the Streets in Guanajuato

Walking the Guanajauto streets brings unexpected rewards, like accompanying an Estudiantina made up of secondaria students from Monterrey. I was so taken with their music that when they stopped at Plaza Allend I ran ahead to Cafe Tal and brought the leader a cup of Tal coffee.

One morning about a week later, I came uon a parade down Paseo de la Presa, young students holding colorful banners with messages (in Spanish) like "Save the Planet" and "Love and Peace." They tied up traffic along this main street for almost half an hour but ni modo.

Sorry folks, for now my camera is out of order

but neanwhile you can click on the archives to see past photos.